Below you'll find answers to some of the technical issues you may come across – but in the meantime, feel free to drop us an email with subject heading [Tech support] and detail of your query in the email body. Our email address is [email protected]
If you plug in the charger and the light stays green the most likely problem is that the fuse on the charge circuit inside the battery is blown, this is a different fuse to the one accessible from the outside of the battery which is on the output side of the battery.
However, before changing the fuse also check the battery charger, if dropped or mishandled they may fail. If the charger is not outputting 41.5-42 volts then it is faulty and needs to be replaced. Make sure to replace only with a charger designed for your bike.
If fuse needs to be replaced the battery pack needs to be opened to access the fuse, this is not a user serviceable repair and must be carried out by a competent technician.
Please note opening the battery may void your warranty.
The braking system on your bike uses fiction to stop the bike, some noise is normal and unavoidable.
First check that the brakes are not worn out, if they are replace.
Check alignment of brake components and that the wheel is mounted to the bike correctly. On front wheels with a quick release, undo and then close quick release with bike in upright position off the kick-stand.
Misalignment or contamination of the braking surface, (brake rotor, rims and brakes pads) with road grime, dirt or oil can cause squealing or a grinding noise.
Cleaning can help, however sometimes the contamination will become ingrained and can not be removed successfully. If this is the cause, change pads and possibly the rotor as well. If just changing pads make sure to clean the brake rotor thoroughly.
You can also choose to fit different grades of pad to reduce noise, organic pads are quieter in operation, however the braking force may not be as strong. Metallic pads offer stronger braking, but create more noise and will wear brakes rotors quicker.
If the display won't come on at all first check the master power switch is in the on position. On our Tilba and Bondi models this is on the rear underside of the battery. On Hard Tail Evo, Mixte and Thredbo ebikes this is on the top of the battery.
If the power comes on then cuts out on a bump check that the battery is locked in correctly.
If the battery is locked in check that the lock or housing is not damaged. If damaged the battery may be able to slide back and forth, cutting the power.
Check the male pins connecting the bike to the battery - are they in good condition? If they are bent or corroded this may be the cause of the problem.
Next, check that the display cable is plugged in to the wiring loom correctly.
If you have performed these checks and still have an issue, please see an authorised Dyson Bikes Dealer.
Check brake levers, see details on Error 5 below.
Check the cable from the motor to the bike is connected correctly, sometimes these get knocked or kicked by accident. Looking carefully at the connection you'll see two small arrows moulded into the plastic. These should almost touch if connected correctly.
If still not working, check if the 'walk' mode is still ok. To engage 'walk' mode stand on the left side of the bike with the bike on the stand, rock the bike towards you so the rear wheel is off the ground, then press and hold the down button. After a few seconds the bike will engage the motor. If the motor works in 'walk' mode, the most likely cause of the problem is the cadence/pedal sensor is faulty and will need to be attended to by an authorised Dyson Bikes Dealer.
If the wrong charger has been used then the battery maybe over voltage, (41.6 volts or higher). If this is the case the bike not engage the motor. You can leave the display turned with the back light on this will reduce the voltage over time, (you may need to switch the bike on a number of times as the display will switch off after a few mintues). If you find the bike works after the voltage is reduced then the charger maybe the wrong one for your bike or has a fault.
If the bike display shows a spanner symbol or ER, then a number the controller has detected an issue.
If ER4 is displayed, then the bike has detected the battery is below the correct operating voltage.
Try to recharge the battery, if the battery is not charging see above.
If ER5 is shown the most common issue is a bent brake lever. If the lever is bent it may not return fully and the bike thinks the brakes are on. It the brakes are on the motor will not engage.
To fix, it is necessary to replace the lever.
Caution! Do not bend back into position, this will fix it but will weaken the structure of the lever which could lead to a failure.
If your electric bike display is showing ER6 or ER9 the most likely cause of this is that the connector between the motor and the controller has come loose.
This connection is found by following the cable out of the motor, about 100mm from the motor is the connector.
To fix this issue, first check the arrows align, then push them together. They will be quite firm to prevent water getting in to it may require some effort to get them to connect properly.
Switch the ebike back on and all going well the error message will have gone.
9 out of 10 times this resolves the issue, but very occasionally it may indicate a sensor fault in the motor. In these cases unfortunately the motor will need to be replaced, however it is very, very rare.
ER10, ER15 or ER16 relate to a communication problems between the display and controller.
Check connections between display and wiring loom, if you still have an issue the bike will need to be attended to by an authorised Dyson Bikes Dealer.
Check out this blog post for tips on brake adjustment, https://www.dysonbikes.com.au/blogs/blog/brake-adjustment
If you need to remove your electric bikes' tyres it is worth checking out this video below and webpage from Park Tool.
Removing a motor wheel from your electric bike is not to difficult, check out our video below for a few tips and tricks.